
When I talk about mushrooms in my cooking classes, people either look on with puzzlement or contort their faces into a grimace. One student told me that she was afraid of mushrooms that don’t come in a can. Others have said that they eat them only when they’re served raw as a salad topping, a preparation that does not show mushrooms in their best light. It’s clear that mushrooms are misunderstood creatures, existing somewhere between vegetable matter and animal protein. I want to help people understand that mushrooms are easy to prepare, healthy, and very tasty. It’s time to face our fear of mushrooms.

One reason I’m such a big fan of the fungus is that cultivated varieties are available all year round. Most varieties are also good sources of B vitamins and minerals such as selenium. At my farmer’s market, the mushroom vendor carries several kinds, from feathery
maitakes to bulbous oysters of varying sizes, to benign buttons. I’m starting somewhere in between the common and exotic, with
king oysters: rich, meaty, and mild in flavor, they have an attractive appearance more akin to a root vegetable and less like a tentacled alien creature than other more foreign varieties, so it’s a good choice for new mushroom cooks.

Today I found king oysters at the farmer’s market as well as in the natural foods store nearby, fresh and in good condition. The mushrooms were sold in a paper bag, and for good reason; they will immediately begin to wilt and form condensation in an atmosphere where they can’t breathe. When I brought them home, I stored them in the fridge inside the bag while I readied my cooking gear.
Above: King oyster mushrooms baked with eggs, leeks, and potatoes
I did a simple pan-sear of my mushrooms (see recipe below), although they can also be roasted in the oven the exact same way you would roast potatoes. Once seared, the mushrooms are ready to add to a variety of dishes. I could have simply eaten the tender oysters on a piece of bread with some black pepper and a dash of olive oil and lemon; they are that rich and tasty. Instead, I cooked them in a baked omelet along with some sautéed leeks and potatoes. Here are some other simple ideas of how to use your pan-seared oysters:
• Cut into strips and toss with pasta
• Dice and add to a pot of white bean soup
• Slice thin and add to a stir-fry
• Pulse in a food processor along with garlic and ginger to make dumpling filling
• Top a pizza
• Slice thinly and serve over brown rice with sliced scallions and cilantro leaves, and season with soy sauce, sesame oil, and chili flakes
Recipe: Pan Seared King Oyster Mushrooms
Serves 2-4 as an appetizer
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra
½ lb king oyster mushrooms
1 clove garlic, minced
½ cup chicken or vegetable stock, or water
Salt and pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
1. Slice off the very end of the mushroom stems, and break apart the stalks. Slice the stalks lengthwise, a little less than ¼ inch thick.
2. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat and pour in three tablespoons of olive oil, followed by the mushrooms. Let the first side cook for about four minutes, until they turn a golden brown on the bottom. Season generously with salt, and then turn the mushrooms over and sear for another four minutes. Season the second side with salt. Add the garlic and stock and boil until the liquid evaporates, then remove the mushrooms from the pan.
3. Serve hot and drizzle with a little lemon juice, olive oil, and several turns of freshly ground black pepper.
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