Chicago Eats: Floriole Bakery & Cafe

06/30/2010

Chicago Eats: Floriole Bakery & Cafe

Tim Mazurek

I always dreamed that Chicago would get a really exceptional bakery— a Tartine, a Rose Bakery, a Huckleberry even. My dream came true back in April when Sandra Holl opened Floriole Bakery & Cafe and forever changed the bakery scene in town.

Holl, who actually worked at Tartine for a couple of years after graduating from culinary school, arrived in Chicago in 2005 ready to start baking. Rather than join an established bakery or pastry department, she decided that she would try selling her own creations at Chicago's famed Green City Market. Those first years were spent getting to know her customers and perfecting her own pastry repertoire. Like many Chicagoans, I grew to love her baked goods back in those early days at the farmers' market. Where else could you buy a canelé in Chicago?! Not only was her product the best around, she and her staff were so kind and lovely that we all waited patiently in the long line that formed every week in front of their stall.

You can imagine the collective excitement when it was announced that Floriole was going to open a brick and mortar space and Chicagoans would be able to get these delicious sweets any day of the week. Free of the restrictions of Green City Market's strict local and organic rules, Holl and her team have been able to expand their repertoire to include some exotics (to the Midwest) like lemons, coffee, chocolate, and nuts of all kinds. While the emphasis remains on local, organic, and high-quality ingredients, the expanded offerings have allowed the bakery to really soar. Each day the case is filled with a dazzling array of croissants, macaron, pots de crème, quick breads, cookies and cakes. In addition to all of the sweets, they also serve lunch in the form of tartines, sandwiches, quiches, and salads. At a recent lunch I enjoyed their version of the BLT (bacon, goat cheese, greens and date spread on house-made yeasted corn bread) with a side of a spicy carrot salad, a wonderful hibiscus iced tea, and a raspberry tart with rose hip pastry cream. These are the lunches that dreams are made of.

And this is just the beginning. Holl has big plans for Floriole. They're waiting for a liquor license which will bring wines and beers into the mix. They also plan to expand their hours into the evening and eventually offer some more substantial dishes for dinner. Chicago is lucky to have Floriole and I look forward to it being around for a very long time. If you're visiting Chicago, be sure to stop by for a canelé.