
A little over a month ago, I made the 17 hour drive from NYC to Des Moines as I moved myself to the Midwest. I had only one planned stop—at The Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland. I’d desperately wanted to go to Jeni’s to have some of her remarkable ice cream (in flavors like Salty Caramel and Strawberry Rose Petal) that’s made from nearly all local ingredients. But, it proved to be many hours off of my route, so instead, I looked for a restaurant that served her products and wound up at Greenhouse. I’d read a little bit about it online before going so I knew that the chef, Jonathan Sawyer, was committed to running a farm to table restaurant and that they were the first certified green restaurant in Ohio. But I didn’t expect to be entirely blown away by the food. I was there in the middle of spring and my meal included four vegetables that I’d never tasted before—ramps, fiddlehead ferns, garlic scapes and cardoons. It was totally fun and pretty unusual to have that type of a food experience. Plus, I got to end the meal with a dish of Jeni’s Salty Caramel ice cream, so as far as I’m concerned, it was one of the best meals I’ve had in years.
And even though I don’t have plans to be back in Cleveland anytime soon, I’m delighted to know that I can make this tart at home (with the help of some friends and perhaps a bottle or two of wine since it’s definitely involved!) and once again experience their stellar ability to combine seasonal flavors.
Lake Erie Creamery Goat Cheese and Potato Tart with Heirloom Tomatoes
Serves 4
Potato Tart
1Whole Large Idaho Potato (peeled, thinly sliced, soaked in cold water)
1 QT Blended Oil
1 TBS Goats milk Bechamel
4 TBS Caramelized Onions
½ cup Goat Cheese (a washed rind semi aged aka Lake Erie Creamery Blooma or Coach Farm Log)
1Tsp Picked Fresh Thyme
TT Salt Pepper Nutmeg
1 TBS Melted Butter
1. Heat a 4qt sauce pan over medium heat. Add oil to pan. Heat oil to 325 degrees, then begin blanching the potatoes. Place four slices of potato carefully into the oil, allow potato’s to cook for two minutes then remove with a metal spider or slotted spoon. Season with salt and allow cooling and drying on parchment paper. Set aside.
2. In a 4” round tart pan brush lightly with butter, line with slices of blanched potato slightly overlapping, then place a thin layer of caramelized onions and some picked thyme on top of the potatoes. Coat the onion mixture with a thin layer of béchamel and some goat cheese.
3. Bake tart in a 375 degree oven, for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Garnish with the remainder of the goat cheese (shaved) and the heirloom tomato salad. Enjoy.
Tomato Salad
2 TBS Extra Virgin Olive Oil
¼ cup Heirloom Tomato’s (assorted room temperature heirloom’s sliced into small wedges)
1 TBS Wheat Beer Vinegar (The Greenhouse Tavern makes a lot vinegars in house so just buy the highest quality malt vinegar you can afford)
1 TBS Chervil (thinly sliced)
¼ cup Watercress ( or any thin peppery green lettuce
TT Salt & Pepper
1. Combine Heirloom Tomatoes, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Chervil, Wheat Beer Vinegar, Watercress and season with S & P. Set aside to garnish tart.
Caramelized Onions
6Whole Sweet Onions (thinly sliced)
2 TBS Duck Fat (or beef or chicken fat)
1 TBS Butter
4 Fresh Bay Leaves
1 Bunch Fresh Thyme
TT Salt
1. Heat a 12” sauté pan over medium high heat, add duck fat and allow to melt and warm up. Add all of the sliced onions and season heavily with salt. Stir continuously for about twelve minutes or until onions achieve a light golden brown color.
2. Preheat oven to 325 degrees, add 2 bay leaves, half of the thyme and the butter to the onion mixture. Try and cover the fresh herbs with the onion mixture so the herbal aromas steam into the onions. Bake until dark golden brown (approximately 30 minutes) stirring every five minutes. Add the remaining fresh herbs to the onion mixture and taste for seasoning. Cool onion mixture and reserve for tart or other use.
Goats Milk Bechamel
4 TBS Butter
4 TBS All purpose flour
4 Cups Goat milk
2 TSP Salt
1 TSP Freshly grated nutmeg
1. In a medium saucepan, heat the butter over medium-low heat until melted. Add the flour and stir until smooth. In another saucepan, heat up milk with salt and ½ the nutmeg. Wisk milk mixture into the butter & flour mixture and simmer over medium low for fifteen minutes. Strain reserve.
*I also wanted to add a note about the lights in the restaurant. I was slightly obsessed with them—they are made from bike rims—and I’ve learned that Jonathan and his wife Amelia made them! Makes me love the place even more.
