Place Setting: Birmingham, Alabama
Birmingham, Alabama
Written by Charles Buchanan
Photography by Charles Buchanan
MY BIRMINGHAM
At Sloss Furnaces in Birmingham, creative sparks often reach 2,450 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s hot enough for artists to melt old pipes and radiators to form new cast-iron sculptures—in the same location that hundreds of workers once produced iron for a booming America. As they tap the furnace, sparks, pops, flashes of heat, and the glow of liquid metal make a thrilling sound-and-light show.
That same energy now permeates this Southern city. People here realize that a vibrant city doesn’t simply wait for interesting things to form, but that it creates them using whatever it has available. Birmingham’s size—about 230,000—isn’t too big or too small, which makes it very easy for citizens to help shape the cultural landscape.
A decade ago, local filmmakers wanted to bring more indie films to Birmingham, so they set up their own showcase. Now the annual Sidewalk Moving Picture Festival is nationally known and highly anticipated. More recently, entrepreneurs and artists have taken the lead in revitalizing urban neighborhoods by opening restaurants and shops that have quickly become favorites.
Many of these business ventures recycle the remnants of Birmingham’s industrial past. Abandoned downtown blocks have become Railroad Park and Jones Valley Urban Farm, where you’ll find produce, chickens, and flowers. Former mining lands inside the city limits are preserved as Ruffner Mountain Nature Center.
I search the streets for old signs and architectural details to feature in my block printing. But I also find inspiration in the natural beauty. You don’t have to go far to find a forest—and even a waterfall.
I like to think of Birmingham as a work in progress. We may still be ragged in spots, but it’s an exciting time to live here. We’re changing things, spark by spark.
GOOD EATS
Trattoria Centrale serves unique pizzas and pastas made with local ingredients, including tomatoes, eggplants, and herbs grown in its rooftop garden.
Dodiyós offers a round-the-Mediterranean excursion on its menu—with options ranging from tapas to an Iranian dish of duck in walnut-pomegranate sauce.
NIGHTLIFE
BottleTree presents breaking bands along with movies and dance parties.
Garage Cafe is great for drinks and has a shaded antiques- and plants-filled courtyard that was originally a 1920s parking garage.
RETAIL THERAPY
Naked Art features affordable pieces, often made with recycled materials by local artists, from coffee-can birdhouses to auto-part lamps.
What’s on 2nd (2306 2nd Ave. N.; 205.322.2688) is an antiques shop that feels like a pop-culture time capsule. Be prepared to spend hours rummaging through T-shirts, toys, and 100,000 vintage postcards.
OUTDOORS
Red Mountain Park will cover 1,108 acres when it opens in 2012, but you can take seasonal preview hikes to see mines and other historic ruins.
Vulcan Park and Museum is home to Birmingham’s icon—a giant cast-iron statue of the Roman god of the forge. Be sure to climb the pedestal for the best skyline view.
ARTS
Bare Hands Gallery shows works by contemporary Alabama artists, such as Dan Bynum and Daisy Winfrey.
Pepper Place was once a soda factory; now it’s the hub of an art and design district and home to a popular farmer’s market.
Charles Buchanan is Assistant Magazine Editor for the University of Alabama at Birmingham.


















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