A long time ago, New Bedford, Massachusetts, lit the world—literally. Whale oil provided fuel for lamps and wax for candles, and, as the whaling capital of America, the town accrued enormous riches from its ships trolling the world’s oceans. New Bedford (about 60 miles south of Boston) was where Herman Melville sent Ishmael in the second chapter of Moby Dick. But by the late 19th century, the demand for whale oil dwindled as petroleum gained favor, sending the city into a dizzying economic collapse. Its cobblestone streets grew dirty; its many banks emptied. New Bedford’s citizens went to work in new textile mills, which supported the city but offered nothing close to the wealth experienced in the whaling days. By the 1940s the textile industry faded, unemployment soared, and New Bedford was largely forgotten.

Fast-forward to the 1970s: The shell of a city was renewed as it filled with artists, writers, musicians, and foodies looking for the cheap, high-ceilinged waterfront spaces that the city had in abundance. The UMass Dartmouth art school moved in downtown, and along with it came students, coffee shops, galleries, and restaurants. New Bedford (now home to about 93,000) became a cultural capital of New England.

Fortunately, as the city’s character grows younger, a solid dose of history remains top of mind. On the second Thursday night of the month, AHA! Night encourages downtown galleries and shops located in the old stone buildings to open their doors. Cafés host folk musicians, the old Seamen’s Bethel organizes sea shanty sings, the New Bedford Whaling Museum holds lectures on maritime history, and the faded-brick waterfront factories now home to many of the city’s artists host open studios.

Outside downtown, New Bedford’s historically Portuguese North End provides a culinary nod to the Azorean and Portuguese fisherman who came to town with the whaling industry, in the form of bacalao (salted codfish stew), chorizo, and sweetbreads. In the summer, the North End hosts its famous “Feast” block party filled with Portuguese musicians, kegs of Madeira wine, and a 40-foot-long fire pit to roast a purchased bag of beef.

With the hopeful arrival of South Coast Rail’s Boston-to-New Bedford railway project, New Bedford will finally be easily accessible to the rest of New England. It’s a good thing there’s plenty of culture to go around.

Don't Miss List 

Lunch
No Problemo
Run by a crew of skateboarders, it offers the best burritos east of the Mississippi

Dinner 
Spicy Lime Thai restaurant
Serves up curries, noodles, and tasty rice dishes 

Cork
Upscale bar, featuring wine and tapas, right on the waterfront

Bar
Rose Alley Ale House
More than 38 rotating beers on tap in the city’s former red-light district

Galleries
Navio Gallery
Changing shows of mostly ceramic art

Star Store
UMass Dartmouth’s University Art Gallery

History
New Bedford Whaling Museum
Boasts a full-scale model of the forward section of a whaling ship and an annual Moby Dick Marathon

Party
The Feast of the Blessed Sacrament
August block party built with sweet Madeira wine and spiced meats