ReadyMade: Instructions for everyday life

Issue 45
The Escapes Issue
Cook perfect pancakes
Build a modern rustic bench
Sew new life into a vintage dress
Check out the RM Photo Gallery

Bedroom Ideas: Custom Upholstered Headboard

Clean Up Your Act With a Custom Headboard

by Matt Maranian

Photos by Peter Wrenn

When it came time to shop for a headboard, I had only two simple needs. Need One: Sit up comfortably in bed. Need Two: My bedroom should not look like a page from the Pottery Barn catalog. I didn’t have to search long to find several styles that would have satisfied both requirements, but I couldn’t justify paying upwards of $1,000 for the pleasure, knowing that they were made from the same plywood and foam rubber that I’d
use to build my own. So I did, all the while nursing a longtime, fetishy attraction to white leather auto upholstery along with an immutable “motor court” sensibility.

    Cuts and Basic Shape

    1. Ask the lumberyard to make the first six straight plywood cuts so you need to make only the finishing cuts to the headboard support.

    2. Cut each 8” wide piece to a length of 36” (see tip below regarding mattress height). #

      Take one 8” x 36” piece of plywood and lay it flat on the floor, with the 8” end at 12 o’clock. Measuring across the top edge, mark a spot 4” across from the top left corner (the center point). Then, measuring along the left edge, mark a point 9” down from the top left corner. Using the yardstick, connect the dots with a straight line, and use that line to guide the saw (save the triangular piece you just cut-it’s not scrap).

    3. Repeat with the other 8” x 36” piece.

    4. Take the 12” x 4’ piece and shorten the length to 28”, creating a piece measuring 12” x 28”.

    5. Lay the configuration on the floor over newspaper and glue the two side supports against either side of the 12” x 28” piece (you may need to use boxes or books to hold the side supports upright while they dry).

    6. Next, glue each triangular piece within the right angle of each support,
      positioned about 6” from the top corner.

    Upholstering the Boards

    1. Once dry, reinforce the sections joined with glue by placing a 10 × 13/4” wood screw an inch or so from the end of each glued joint (drill leads with a 1/8” bit to keep the wood from splitting).

    2. Mark the six points at which the buttons will be placed on the headboard and drill each point using the 3/8” bit.

    3. Mark and drill the three points at which the buttons will be placed on the footboard.

    4. Lay the 24” x 66” sheet of foam rubber on the floor. Center the headboard, smooth side down, over the foam rubber, to allow for a 11/2” trim all around.

    5. Working with 4” to 5” sections at a time, pull the foam rubber taut over the edge of the headboard and staple securely in place (space staples approximately 1” apart).

    6. Continue until all four edges of the headboard are secured. Repeat the process with the 28” x 70” sheet of vinyl, allowing for a 4” trim. Complete the footboard using the 20” by 66” piece of foam rubber and the 24” by 70” vinyl sheet.

    7. Cutting from the scrap piece of vinyl, cover the buttons as per product instructions.

    8. String a button with about 18” of mason line or twine and bring the ends of the string together.

    9. Bend a paper clip into a “V” shape and place the doubled strand of the mason line or twine in the crook of the “V”. Fold the ends of the “V” together; this will serve as a “needle” for pulling the strings through the vinyl.

    10. From the wood side of the headboard, use a pencil to poke gently through a buttonhole to establish your mark (but don’t poke through the vinyl!).

    11. From the upholstered side of the headboard, push the ends of the paper clip through the established point, drawing the paper clip completely through to the other side.

    12. Pull the strings taut, double-knot the line about 2” from the buttonhole, and staple the line securely into the wood (staple several times as close to the knot as possible to prevent any loosening).

    13. Repeat the process for the remaining buttons on both the headboard and footboard.

    Securing the Headboard

    1. Lay the headboard on the floor, upholstered side down. Using books or a friendly helper to position the headboard support, place the angled edge of the support so it rests flush against the back of the headboard.

    2. Center the angled edges of the support 161/4” from each side edge of the headboard and 2” from the bottom edge of the headboard.

    3. Position two corner braces about 6” apart against the side of the angled edge of the support (Fig. 1).

    4. Using 12 × 3/4” sheet metal screws, secure the side of the brace resting on the back of the headboard into place. Mark the screw hole points on the side of the support with a pencil.

    5. Do the same for all four braces and turn the support upright.

    6. Drill leads using the 1/8” bit into the marked points on the headboard support.

    7. To secure the headboard, first place the headboard support flush against the wall at the desired location.

    8. Using two 10 × 3” wood screws spaced approximately 16” apart, drill through the back of the support directly into the wall studs.

    9. Position the headboard to the support, align the corner braces and the drilled leads, and screw into place (final assembly is best completed with two people).

    Securing the Footboard

    1. Drill leads with the 1/8” bit 2” from each side of the footboard and 2” from the bottom edge (drill cautiously, being very careful not to drill straight through the upholstery).

    2. Place another set of leads above the set just drilled (bed frame styles vary; the placement measurement for these leads will be determined by the placement of the holes in the footboard support plate).

    3. Using the 14 × 1” sheet metal screws and 1/16” washers, fasten the footboard in place by driving the screws through the back of the footboard support plate on the bed frame and into the footboard.

    4. Time for a nap.

    Tip:

    The headboard dimensions shown here are designed for a queen-size mattress, box spring, and metal frame. The height was designed to accommodate a mattress surface measuring 24” from the floor. To adjust it, simply alter the length of the two headboard side supports.

Headboard

$150

ingredients

    • 4’ x 8’ sheet of 3/4” A/C fir plywood
    • Wood glue
    • Newspaper
    • 12 10 × 1 3/4” wood screws
    • 2 pieces of 1/2” foam rubber: one 24” x 66”, one 20” x 66”
    • 3 pieces of vinyl: one 28” x 70”, one 24” x 70”, and one scrap piece used to cut button covers, approximately 20” x 20”
    • 6 1 1/8” cover buttons (usually sold three to a package, with assembly kit)
    • 14’ roll of nylon mason line or twine (strong, but thin enough to string the buttons)
    • 4 3 1/2” steel corner braces
    • 16 12 × 3/4” sheet metal screws
    • Metal bed frame for queen-size bed
    • 4 14 × 1” sheet metal screws
    • 4 1/16” thick metal washers (5/6” inner diameter, 3/4” outer diameter)
    • 2 10 × 3” wood screws
    • 2 boxes of staples for staple gun

tools

    • Yardstick
    • Pencil
    • Circular or table saw
    • Electric drill with 1/8”, 3,8”, and Phillips screwdriver bits
    • Staple gun
    • Large paper clip