Booze Cruise

Next you’ll put in four bartop supports (two 21 1/2" pieces and two 12" pieces) on top of the frame. All four supports should hang over the top front crosspiece by 1 1/2". Set each 21 1/2" piece 7" in from the edge of the side panels. Space the two 12" pieces evenly in between.

Now attach two 32" vertical supports for the main shelf. Set each one within a side panel, abutting the inside crosspieces.

Next you’ll put in the two horizontal shelf supports (the last two 47 1/2" 2" x 3"s). Measure 12" up from the bottom crosspieces and mark it on the vertical shelf supports and the front vertical frame pieces. Screw in the supports.

Next you’ll create the bar’s side shelves using the four 6 1/2" 2" x 3"s. Measure 10" from the top and bottom of the side frame pieces to set the shelves.

Paint the entire frame white to make it “disappear” behind the translucent frame. Take a break, and fi nish the bar the following day.

Attach the Casters: Flip the bar over and place your the casters on the corners—inset them at least 2" from the corners to prevent tripping . Using a pencil, mark your holes through the casters.

Using the drill and a 3/8" bit, and starting with the back wheels, pre-drill through-holes. Use washers, bolts, and nuts to attach the casters. Tighten with socket wrench. For the front casters, you are going to use the same method for the back two holes. But you’ll notice you can’t make through-holes for the front two caster holes, so here you’ll pre-drill holes with the 1/8" bit, and attach the casters with the 1/4" lag bolts and washers.

Make the Shelves: Slide the two 10 1/2" x 47 1/2" plywood pieces in place on the two shelf supports. Pre-drill and countersink before you attach the shelves to the support pieces with 3/4" wood screws.

Attach the 6 1/2" x 2 1/2" pieces of plywood on top of the side shelves using wood screws.

Attach the Front Panels: Pre-drill all of the holes in the panels with the 3/16" bit. Use the adjustable square and a pencil to draw a line 3/4" from the vertical edges of the panels. Measure the holes at 5" intervals from the top down for all three panels (so they match up at the corners).

Start with the front panel, and have a friend help you hold the panel flush with the top of the frame, and overhang 1/4" on each side. You’re going to attach the panels with the #6 3/4" wood screws with the fi nish washers for the panels. Using the 1/8" bit, predrill the top holes on each side, and attach two screws so that you and your friend can let go. Attach the remaining screws and be sure not to over-tighten and make a dimple on the panels. Now place the side panels behind that 1/4" overhang on the front panel, and keep flush with the top and bottom of the front panel.

Attach all panels to the top edge of the frame for stability, to the bar top supports for the front panel, these screws will be hidden by the bartop later.

Make the Bar Top: This is easy to mess up, so give yourself some room for mistakes. Using the table saw or circular saw, cut a 48 5/8" x 22" rectangle for the bartop. Place it on top of the frame to check the fit.

Now plan the U-shaped cut out according to your frame. Mark 13" from each end to the middle of the long side. Use a square and pencil to extend that line 9 1/2" into the (22") width of the bartop. With your pencil, connect those two points to form the cutout. Using the jigsaw, cut on your lines, trying to be as precise as possible, because the seams will be visible.

Place the bartop on top of the frame and panels for this step. The bartop edges will be cut from the 4" strips. It is really important to pre-drill these holes because of the 1/2" thick dimension of the bartop. Use the adjustable square to draw a line at the midpoint of the edge thickness and pre-drill. Make corresponding lines on the 4" edge pieces, and pre-drill/ countersink for the 3/4" #6 stainless steel wood screws. Attach the front 49 1/2" edge piece first. Have your friend help hold the piece flush with the bartop with a 1/2" overhang on each side, and attach.

Attach the two 22" side edge pieces, always using the same pre-drilling precautions. Those pieces will be flush with the back of the bartop. The back edge 14" pieces go on next, making a flush outside corner, with an overhang of 1/2" on the inside corner. The 10 1/2" edge pieces wrap around the inside of the U-shape, and the last 21 1/2" edge piece fits on the long edge of the U-shape.

Use the same #6 stainless steel screws, and pre-drill and countersink holes in the six corners of the bartop to attach it to the frame.

Use 120-grit sandpaper to ease all of your bartop and shelf edges.

Clean off all pencil marks, removing any dust before you apply the outdoor wood finish.

Apply at least three coats and sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper in between coats.

Stock up the bar and get the party started!