Projects

Inner Space: The Industrial-Strength Dresser

bedroom dresser furniture industrial
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Better bureau.

Posted by ReadyMade
Project by Mark Perlson

You’ll sleep more soundly knowing a 9-pound metal bin designed for degreasing machine parts is keeping your sweat socks safe. And you can’t put a price on the security of knowing that your dresser’s casters could support the weight of a Shetland pony. These are but two of the benefits of using industrial supply in new ways. With a pre-finished plywood frame and perforated bins from Randolph Industries, this bureau is as handsome as it is strong. Sure, the metal corners scuff the wood over time, but that just adds character.

Skill Level

Hard

Active Time

More than a weekend

Cost

$$$

Materials

3 3/4" x 13" x 18 3/4" finished plywood for shelves
2 3/4" x 14 1/2" x 18 3/4" finished plywood for top and bottom
2 3/4" x 18 3/4" x 36" finished plywood for sides
1/4" x 14 1/2" x 37 1/2" finished plywood for back
33 1 1/2" No. 8 wood screws
Brad nails or heavy-duty staples
3/4" iron-on plywood trim (edging)
16 3/4" machine screws
2 3" casters
2 3" casters with brakes
4 12" x 18" x 8" metal bins

Tools

Yardstick or tape measure
Saw (if you’re cutting your own plywood)
Pencil
Nail set
Hammer or staple gun
Drill with drill bit set, including 1 1/8" spade bit and screwdriver
bit
Iron
Utility knife

Cut all plywood to size. We used prefinished maple veneer.

Measure the screw holes. This is a key step. If you’ve measured the holes correctly, the rest will screw together in no time! For the top and bottom, use a combination square or other marking gauge to accurately mark the holes so they land exactly halfway through the edge of the side pieces. Draw a line from the front to the back of the pieces a little less than 3/8" from the side (remember that 3/4" plywood is actually a little less than 3/4"). Then make three marks across each of these lines, one 2" from the front, one 2" from the back, and one in the center (9 3/8” from the front).

To mark the two sides, draw three lines across the piece from front to pack at 9", 18", and 27" from the top. These lines indicate where the shelves will meet the sides. Then make three marks across each line, one 2" from the front, one 2" from the back, and one in the center (9 3/8" from the front).

To get more accurate holes, start each one with a nail set or the actual nail to punch through the veneer. For the decorative holes, use the intersection of X’s drawn from the edge to the center of the piece. 5. Drill the holes. Countersink for best results. For the decorative holes, drill a pilot hole first. Turn the board over and score all the holes with the 11/8" spade bit, going in about 1/8". This will prevent the veneer from tearing when the bit breaks through. Once all the holes are scored, turn the board back over and drill through with the spade bit.

Now it’s time to assemble the case. Line up the bottomand one of the sides, leaving a tiny bit of overhang for the veneer edging if so desired. Drill a pilot hole through the screw hole into the edge. It should enter the side piece in the center of the edge of the plywood, 2" in from the rear of the piece. Drill in your first screw. You may want to use a framing square or a partner to keep things as straight as possible. Follow through the rest of the holes, lining up the boards and drilling a pilot hole each time.

Once the top and bottom are attached, it’s time for the shelves. Measure them up with the cut lines and continue with the pilot holes and screws, each screw going directly into the center of the board edge. Start at the front of each drawer for the best fit. Which is the front? The side you lined up best on the top and bottom! 8. Nail or staple the 1/4" veneer to the back.